The Best of Puerto Rico in 4 Days

Why Puerto Rico?

Where can you spend a 4-day weekend in absolute nature, get a tan on instagram-worthy beaches, swim with wild sea turtles, explore a jungle and rinse off under a waterfall, get your salsa dance groove on, and scratch your history buff itch? The answer lies in the Caribbean Sea, just between the Dominican Republic and the Virgin Islands, and it's name is Puerto Rico.

The easiest of tropical getaways since a passport isn't required for United States citizens, currency is the US Dollar, it's just a hop and skip away from the mainland USA and flights are quite affordable, especially in the shoulder season. Puerto Rico, an island of natural wonders, interesting history , salsa dancing and a smorgasbord of delicious (and affordable) Caribbean foods awaits! Let's get started!

Getting there and getting around

When booking a flight to the island, be sure to select the correct San Juan airport by typing SJU as destination airport code to keep from arriving in Argentina's San Juan airport instead. We always compare flight prices on Expedia against major airlines and unless we use our frequent flyer miles (which are only redeemable with the airlines direct), we tend to book with Expedia for their affordable trip insurance and bundle discounts.

Try it yourself: https://expedia.com/affiliates/expedia-home.PHVHcVA

To experience this amazing itinerary, it's best to rent a car to get around and we recommend reserving the car rental before arriving in San Juan. Reserving ahead saves time at the counter, provides more options and Expedia gives you a less costly comprehensive rental insurance (insurance is a must unless your credit card offers this service. If you wait until you're at the counter, it can end up double the price of the rental!)

Our route overview

Itinerary Map

Our itinerary takes us clockwise around the north-eastern part of the main Puerto Rico island, staying the first night in Fajardo. The next morning headed to Ceiba at early light to catch transport to Culebra island and from there to Culebrita to spend the most part of the day there, snorkeling with sea turtles.

Then either return to main Puerto Rico to spend the night, or stay the night in Culebra and continue the next morning.

The third morning we head into the Luquillo Mountains of El Yunque National Rainforest and stay the night at a rainforest lodge.

On Day four we head to San Juan and depending on the departure time have time for one or both options: Walk/jog the pretty trails at the University of Puerto Rico's Botanical Gardens and/or explore the history of Fort El Morro.

While this itinerary is doable in 4 days, we do think you'll want to stay longer at Culebra or El Yunque Rainforest, so you might consider adding a day.

First stop: El Portal de El Yunque National Rainforest

El Portal de El Yunque Visitor Center

El Portal de El Yunque is the main visitor center for El Yunque National Forest, the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System. It is managed by the US Forest Service and is open every day, year-round (except Christmas Day). The entrance fee is $8 per person over 15yrs, free for kids and National Parks Pass holders get a 50% discount. This welcoming gateway offers interactive exhibits, educational displays, and stunning views of the lush landscape. Visitors can learn about the rainforest’s unique biodiversity, including its rare flora and fauna, before embarking on scenic hikes to waterfalls like La Coca Falls or the iconic La Mina Falls. With its striking architecture and immersive exhibits, El Portal provides the perfect introduction to the wonders of El Yunque, making it a must-visit for nature lovers and adventure seekers. If you're visiting during the summer months, be sure to take an umbrella or poncho. A poncho can trap in heat, so you may want to opt for an umbrella, or simply think of the afternoon rains as a chance to cool off-it's called rainforest for a reason.

Head to Fajardo for the evening adventure.

Bioluminescent Laguna Grande in Fajardo

Kayaking in Bioluminescent Waters in Fajardo, Laguna Grande

Imagine gliding through the inky darkness of Laguna Grande in Fajardo, Puerto Rico, as every stroke of your kayak sends shimmering blue-green ripples across the water—a dazzling natural light show created by millions of glowing dinoflagellates. This magical bioluminescent bay comes alive at night, transforming the lagoon into a starry wonderland where fish dart like underwater comets and the gentle splash of your paddle leaves a trail of light. The adventure begins with a peaceful paddle through winding mangrove tunnels, leading to the open bay where the water sparkles with every movement. Whether you're swimming in the glowing waves or simply drifting under a sky full of stars, Laguna Grande offers an otherworldly experience you’ll never forget. Outfitters located in kayak village will take you to the lagoon around 6 pm and some offer later tours. Just be sure to plan (and book) well ahead, as the tours often sell out and visit on a moonless night for the brightest display of nature’s living magic! You'll have many tour outfitter options to pick from and this tour is rated top notch: https://gyg.me/Q1E4kqe1

Heading to Culebra via ferry or plane- both an adventure!

Ceiba High Speed Ferry

Getting to Culebra Island via the Ceiba Ferry is a scenic and affordable way at under $10 roundtrip per person to reach this Caribbean paradise. The Ceiba Ferry Terminal lies about 20 minutes drive south of Fajardo, with the ferry water journey taking about 45 minutes to an hour. Tickets are best purchased in advance online and you need to arrive at least an hour before departure times to allow for parking and shuttling to the terminal, especially during peak travel seasons. The ferry ride offers stunning views of the turquoise waters and nearby islands, making it a pleasant start to your Culebra adventure.

While the ferry is reliable, schedules vary by season and storms can cancel trips during the day, so checking for updates ahead of time is a good idea.


We chose the 15 mins plane ride to get to Culebra early in the morning and booked one way tickets for the last ferry that evening from Culebra back to Ceiba. We parked our car at the ferry terminal and took a taxi stationed at the ferry terminal from there to the nearby airport ($10), to make the return in the dark that evening a bit easier.

Airplane Ride From Ceiba to Culebra Seeing Small Uninhabited Islands

The quick flight to Culebra with Air Flamenco is a breeze and offers amazing views of smaller Caribbean islands. The 8 passenger planes shuttling to and fro throughout the day at an affordable price of roughly $50 per person one way (at time of this post), but spots need to be booked ahead. You'll need to weigh your bags AND yourself as the planes' seating is calculated by weight.

Once on Culebra you could rent a Jeep or cart for $100 a day and tour Culebra, as instagrammers will most definately convince you to stay at Flamenco Beach...BUT then you'd miss out on the even wilder, more natural beaches on Culebritas, and they are just a quick boat ride away for not a whole lot more.


A candid note on the famous Flamenco Beach: We were curious what all the fuss was about and wanted to see for ourself, but found it overrun with people (no way to get a beach photo without a bunch of people in the background) and littered with rusting, graffity plastered war machines. It does have modern restrooms, food and drink vendors, stray cats and chickens, but it has the feel of a cheap resort and we prefer more authentic experiences, so on to Culebritas!

Culebritas: A Snorkeler's Paradise!

Boat Ride from Culebra to Culebritas

Getting to Culebritas and back:

For those wanting to get the most of the snorkeling time, maybe learn a bit or two about the local marine life, and not have to worry about lugging coolers for drinks, toting snorkel gear, or anxiously spending hours worrying if the water taxi will come back, etc. we recommend booking a full service boat tour with pick up from Culebra airport to take you straight to the best spots:

https://gyg.me/JtjjrWW

For the adventurous kind that planned ahead and brought drinks and snacks along for the next five-six hours in the sun, a quick ride via a water taxi will drop you off right on this Paradise Island beach. The cost for the roundtrip with H2O is right around $55 (at time of this post). Both, the full service tour and water taxi leave Culebra in the morning, so be sure to get to the island no later than 9 a.m.

Culebritas Pristine White Sand Beach and Coconut Palms

On top of Culebritas' list: Tortuga Bay, renowned for its untouched beauty and vibrant coral reef, this beach’s powdery white sand and crystal-clear turquoise waters create a postcard-perfect setting, while the nearby reef teems with marine life, making it a snorkeler’s paradise. Protected as part of the Culebra National Wildlife Refuge, the area remains pristine, offering a serene escape from crowded tourist spots. A lighthouse reminds us of civilization and besides friendly, 1 ft long (snout to tail) Common Puerto Rican Ameiva whiptail lizards and Caribbean Land Hermit Crabs, no modern facilities nor drinking water exist on the island.

Culebritas Snorkeling Beach
Culebritas Snorkeling Beach
Fan Coral at Culebritas Snorkeling Beach

A note on underwater photography: The top two images were taken with an iPhone 14 Pro inside this Waterproof Phone Case for Snorkeling and Diving: https://amzn.to/4iUizlk

The images and video came out clear and the phone stayed dry.

The photo below of the sea turtle was taken with the same phone inside a phone pouch advertised as waterproof. No question, the poor image quality almost ruins the photo AND to top it off, the pouch also leaked. Thank goodness, the newer iPhones are water resistant!

Green Seaturtle in the Wild at Culebritas Tortuga Bay

The island can be explored via a few foot paths. A trail connects the southern coral reef side with Tortuga bay, and we recommend taking drinking water along as the trail seems deceptively short and being in the sun all day is dehydrating. Signs along the trails warn visitors not to pick up munitions left from the US's military drills, thankfully we saw none during our explorations. The lighthouse sits atop a hill and offers amazing 360 degree views of the Caribbean seas.

Culebra: Pre-dinner showers at Flamenco Beach

Late afternoon takes us back to Culebra, we asked our taxi driver to drop us off at Flamenco Beach for a quick shower. Flamenco Beach is a high-traffic tourist spot where taxis await to take beach goers back to town. Folks can ride-share to the ferry terminal or dinner for just $5 per person with a minimum of 4 passengers. We, as well as locals recommend Mamacita's for dinner before heading back to Ceiba on the ferry. The seafood is locally sourced and the dock lights attract wild tarpon, which tussle for morsels tossed by guests. Culebra has a few options for overnight stays, however, we took the ferry back to Ceiba and stayed overnight in Fajardo. Remember to take a jacket along, the ferry cabin is quite cold after a day in the sun.

Mamacita's Restaurant Streetside Entrance
Mamacita's Restaurant Boat Dock at Night with wild Tarpons

El Yunque on the wild side

Day 3: El Yunque. Best get there early!

From yesterdays' white sands to todays' lush green forests: drive up into El Yunque on PR road 191, toward Rio Sabana Recreation Area. The drive from Fajardo up to Rio Sabana takes no more than an hour. Be sure to stop to pick up snacks and drinking water before leaving town, as there are no shops up in the mountains to refuel.

Leaving the sugar cane lowland were wild iguanas often wander onto the pavement, road PR 191 winds upwards transitioning from Mango trees to Cecropias and Giant Tree Ferns.

For a wild hike you won't likely forget anytime soon, the Rio Sabana trail starts right at the recreation area and leads upward through the El Toro Wilderness forest, between the rivers Cubuy and Sabana. Be sure and take a hiking stick and wear solid shoes that hold your foot in place that can handle being wet for hours (we saw several discarded boots with their soles detached). We wore hiking sandals without socks and managed by washing the mud off our feet and ankles in pathside waterfalls.

Palms and Rainforest Canopy in El Yunque Rainforest
Rio Sabana Waterfalls in El Yunque Rainforest.

Forest inhabitants

The wildlife in El Yunque is "friendly" for the most part, allowing one to tread through the forest without having to watch for venomous snakes. The forest is home to 97 bird species, five species of bats, 19 reptiles (mostly lizards), 16 amphibians- all frogs, innumerous terrestrial invertebrates including the Puerto Rican Calisto Butterfly, PR Tree Snails, Semi-slugs, and the odd Velvet Worms. The rivers are home to nine migratory freshwater shrimp and one freshwater crab.

The small Indian Mongoose, an invasive non-native small mammal preys on native wildlife, disrupting the delicate ecosystem.

Puerto Rican Calisto Butterfly in El Yunque
Puerto Rican Tree Snail in El Yunque
Puerto Rican Tody Bird. The only small green bird in El Yunque Besides Hummingbirds
Common Coqui Frog in El Yunque

We recommend staying at Casa Cubuy Ecolodge for a no-fuss (basic 2-star) bed and breakfast experience in the middle of the rainforest. Other, more luxurious lodging can be found on the north side, but you'd miss out on the "path less traveled" experience. The ecolodge is the last building on PR Road 191 toward Rio Sabana Recreation Area. The road abruptly stops just after the entrance into the National Forest, as a landslide interrupted the passage more than a decade ago (Google Maps erroneously shows the road intact). We've stayed here three times over the years. Although we don't get any perks for doing so, we recommend the ecolodge for its tranquil location. Last we checked, bookings are made directly on the lodges' website www.casacubuy.com


Staying there allows you to hike the Rio Sabana, El Toro Wilderness trails during the day and explore the forest after dark by staying on the road. Since the recreation area closes before dark, no cars travel up to it in the dark. The magical light of Fireflies and the chorus of hundreds of Coqui frogs accompany the night-time hiker.

El Yunque National Forest Sign at Night
Lady caught a firefly during night hike in El Yunque
Pyralis Firefly in El Yunque
Delicious Breakfast with Amazing Views of the Luquillo Mountains in El Yunque

Typical Casa Cubuy breakfast: fresh local fruit, tea, coffee, fresh juice, local eggs, French toast and Caribbean-style oatmeal.

Bring food for dinner to cook yourself at the ecolodge in their shared kitchen, or drive down the road two miles to Noelias' Restaurant for the BEST home-cooked Puerto Rican food on the island (check the reviews on Yelp- Noelias' cooking skills are out of this world!). Be sure to call ahead or get there before 6 pm, as Noelia may close early on slow evenings.

Mouthwatering Chicken and Pork Mofongo, paired with homemade Sangria overlooking the Luquillo mountains.... Culinary bliss in a no-fuss, local vibe.

Mofongo is mashed, fried plantains with bacon or pork belly and takes the place of potatoes.

Two stop options in San Juan

1) Cool, quiet shade: University of Puerto Rico Botanic Gardens

If your flight departure is late afternoon or evening, consider taking time to stop at these worthy spots on the way back toward San Juan airport: The University of Puerto Rico's Botanic Gardens lies on San Juan's southern side, is along the route, and is well worth visiting. Take a leisurely stroll through gorgeous plant displays, or exercise along winding paths near ponds filled with the song of rain frogs.

Beautiful landscape architectural bridge at University of Puerto Rico Botanic Gardens

The University of Puerto Rico Botanical Garden (Jardín Botánico de la Universidad de Puerto Rico), located toward in southern San Juan, is a lush 300-acre oasis dedicated to conservation, research and promoting biodiversity and environmental awareness in the Caribbean. Entrance is free to the public. Established in 1971, it showcases native and exotic plant species, including palms, bamboo, orchids, and bromeliads, across themed gardens and natural trails that are great for exercising.

Shell Ginger Plant and Flower
white tropical flowers
lush foliage tree canopies

Two stop options in San Juan:

2) National Historic Site and World Heritage Site:

Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro)

Puerto Rico's history is full of European countries aiming to control its strategic Caribbean location. The most famous landmark is the nearly 500-year-old Spanish fortress Castillo San Felipe del Morro, commonly known as El Morro, overlooking the Bay of San Juan.

Built by the Spanish Empire to defend against naval attacks, this iconic citadel stands on a dramatic promontory overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. With its six-level design, thick walls, and strategic cannons, El Morro successfully repelled invasions from the British, Dutch, and pirates for over 400 years. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a premier tourist attraction, offering spectacular ocean views, sprawling green lawns, and a fascinating glimpse into Puerto Rico’s colonial past.

El Morro World Heritage Site in Puerto Rico
cannon at El Morro San Juan Puerto Rico

We recommend you plan at least 3 hours to explore El Morro. It is located on the tip of Old San Juan, with challenging traffic and parking, but with cultural rewards and breathtaking views.

The entrance fee is $10 per person.

As a national monument, the site is operated by the U.S. National Park Service and is open 9 am - 5 pm, year-round except for Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and New Year's Day

fortress tower El Morro San Juan

Recap by Day

  • Day 1:

  • Arrive, get car and head East to El Yunque National Rainforest Visitor Center.

  • Evening: Continue East to Fajardo, Laguna Grande for kayaking in Bioluminescent Waters.

  • Night: Sleep in Fajardo

  • Day 2:

  • Morning: Ceiba Ferry or Flight to Culebra (park car at Ferry Terminal). Then Culebra Full Service Tour, or water taxi to Culebrita's to snorkel

  • Afternoon: Flamenco Beach for showers

    Evening: Dinner at Mamacita's. Ferry back to Ceiba

  • Night: Sleep in Fajardo

  • Day 3:

  • Morning: El Yunque South (wild) Side, explore El Toro Wilderness

  • Evening: Eat at Noelias' Restaurant. Night hike

  • Night: Sleep at Casa Cubuy Ecolodge

  • Day 4:

  • Morning: San Juan, Botanic Gardens and/or El Morro National Historic Site

  • Afternoon/evening: Depart Puerto Rico

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